Monestir de Sant Quirze de Colera Rabós

Far from the hustle and bustle and hidden among the landscapes of the Albera range, stands the Benedictine monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, one of the most impressive examples of Catalan Romanesque architecture and, at the same time, one of the most mysterious. Visiting it is like taking a journey back to the origins of monastic life in Catalonia, in a natural setting that invites reflection, contemplation, and admiration for the passage of time.

Sant Quirze de Colera is not one of those monuments that impress with their grandeur. On the contrary, it is a space of silence and stone, of solidity and simplicity, preserving intact the essence of what it once was: a place of faith, work, culture, and territorial organization. Stepping through its doorway, one feels transported to another era — a slow, ancient, and profound time.

An ancient origin shrouded in legend

The origins of the monastery are ancient and wrapped in a certain historical mystery. It is said to have been founded around the year 785 by the brothers Libuci and Assinari, leaders of a family community who, according to later (and partially doubtful) sources, supposedly obtained permission from Emperor Charlemagne to establish a monastery in this remote location.

Although the document mentioning it is considered partly apocryphal, archaeological excavations have confirmed the existence of tombs and structures from that period, proving that Sant Quirze de Colera is one of the oldest monastic sites in Catalonia.

From the 9th century onwards, clearer documentation appears. In 844, its abbot petitioned King Louis the Pious for official recognition of the monastery and protection against the interference of the Counts of Empúries. With this support, and particularly under Count Gausbert, Sant Quirze entered a period of growth and expansion that culminated in the consecration of its church in 935, followed later by a new ceremony presided over by the Bishop of Girona in 1123.

An austere and powerful monument

The present-day monastic complex, though partially in ruins, retains an impressive expressive power. The main building is the monastic church, with three naves, a transept, and three apses. Its architecture is sober, with few decorative concessions, yet of serene and powerful beauty — faithful to the essence of early Romanesque style. The proportions of the spaces, the play of light, and the solidity of the walls convey a pure and unadorned spirituality.

The most distinctive feature of the church is the south apse, where during restoration work in 2006, remains of Romanesque wall paintings were discovered: a mandorla (a mystical almond-shaped figure), two angels, and representations of the sun and moon. Though heavily deteriorated, these fragments offer a glimpse into the symbolic world that once adorned this thousand-year-old temple.

Beyond the church: the cloister, the abbot's palace, and the fortifications

Only a few vestiges of the Romanesque cloister remain, but they are of great historical importance, dating from the 10th century — a very early example of this architectural type in Catalonia. Around it were arranged the monastic buildings such as the refectory (dining hall), the communal dormitory, and the abbot's palace.

Over time, especially during the 14th century, the monastery had to be fortified to defend itself from military conflicts, including attacks by French troops in the 13th century. Remnants of the defensive walls and a tower still stand today, evoking those turbulent times.

Not far from the monastery stands the parish church of Santa Maria, built in the 12th century. This small Romanesque gem complements the visit and reinforces the central role Sant Quirze de Colera once held in the religious organization of the region.

From abandonment to restoration

Like so many other medieval monasteries, Sant Quirze de Colera entered a long period of decline from the 15th century onwards. The cloister was already in poor condition by 1441, and in 1592, the monastery was officially suppressed. The last monks moved to Sant Pere de Besalú, and the site was left abandoned or turned into an agricultural estate.

Until the 20th century, the complex suffered neglect and decay. In 1931 it was declared a National Monument, but it was not until several decades later that serious excavation, consolidation, and restoration work began.

Today, thanks to these efforts, Sant Quirze de Colera can be visited in excellent condition and offers a deeply meaningful experience, both for history enthusiasts and for those seeking a quiet escape into nature filled with authenticity and depth.

Come and discover it!

Visiting Sant Quirze de Colera is much more than seeing an ancient monument: it is immersing yourself in the memory of a land, walking on the same stones trodden by monks over a thousand years ago, and letting yourself be carried away by a landscape of serene, timeless beauty. A place where Romanesque art, nature, and history meet in perfect harmony.

Opening hours

• From September 12 to July 12: Saturdays and Sundays, 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
• From July 13 to August 31: Monday to Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. Closed Tuesday afternoons and Wednesdays.
• From September 1 to 11: Monday to Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Let yourself be captivated by the silent strength of Sant Quirze and make this visit a unique experience in the heart of the Albera mountains.