Monestir de Sant Quirze de Colera Rabós

Far from the hustle and bustle and hidden among the landscapes of Albera, stands the Benedictine monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera, one of the most impressive examples of Catalan Romanesque architecture and, at the same time, one of the most mysterious. Visiting it is like taking a journey back to the origins of monastic life in Catalonia, in a natural setting that invites contemplation, meditation, and admiration for the passage of time.

Sant Quirze de Colera is not one of those monuments that attract attention for its exuberance. Quite the opposite . It is a space of silence and stone, of solidity and simplicity, which preserves intact the essence of what it once was: a place of faith, work, culture, and territorial organization. Therefore, once you step into its portal, you feel like you've entered another time. A slow, ancient, and profound time.

An ancient origin surrounded by legend

The monastery's origins are ancient and surrounded by a certain documentary obscurity. There is talk of its foundation around 785 by the Libuci and Assinari brothers, leaders of a family community who, according to later (and partly dubious) sources, had obtained permission from the Emperor Charlemagne to build a monastery in this isolated location.

Although the document that relates it is considered partly apocryphal, archaeological excavations have confirmed the existence of tombs and structures from that time, making it clear that Sant Quirze de Colera is, at least, one of the oldest monasteries in Catalonia.

From the 9th century onwards, more clear documentation of the monastery began. In 844, its abbot petitioned King Louis the Pious for official recognition of the monastery and its protection from the intrusion of the Counts of Empúries. From this moment on, and especially with the support of Count Gausbert, Sant Quirze began a period of growth and expansion that culminated in the consecration of its church in 935 and, later, a new ceremony presided over by the Bishop of Girona in 1123.

An austere and powerful monument

The current monastery complex, despite being partially in ruins, retains an admirable expressive force. The main building is the monastic church, with three naves with a transept and three apses. Its architecture is sober, with few ornamental concessions, but of serene and powerful beauty, faithful to the character of the early Romanesque. This austerity does not detract from the spectacular nature of the complex: the proportion of the spaces, the use of light, and the robustness of the walls convey an uncontrived spirituality.

The most unique part of the church is undoubtedly the south apse. During the restoration work in 2006, remains of Romanesque wall paintings were discovered there: a mandorla (a mystical almond-shaped figure), two angels, and representations of the sun and moon. Although severely damaged, these images offer a glimpse into the symbolic world that originally decorated this ancient temple.

Beyond the church: the cloister, the abbot's palace and the fortifications

Only a few vestiges of the Romanesque cloister remain, but they are of great historical importance, as they date back to the 10th century, a very early example of this architectural typology in Catalonia. The monastic buildings, such as the refectory (dining room), the communal dormitory, and the abbey palace, were arranged around it.

Over time, especially in the 14th century, the monastery had to be fortified to protect itself from armed conflicts, including attacks by French troops in the 13th century. Remains of the wall and a defensive tower can still be seen today, evoking these unstable times.

A short distance from the monastery, the parish church of Santa Maria, built in the 12th century, is also noteworthy. This small Romanesque gem complements the visit and reinforces the central role that Sant Quirze de Colera played in the ecclesiastical organization of the region.

From abandonment to recovery

Like so many other medieval monasteries, Sant Quirze de Colera experienced a long decline from the 15th century onwards. The cloister was already in poor condition by 1441, and the monastery was officially suppressed in 1592. The last monks moved to Sant Pere de Besalú, and the site was either abandoned or converted into a farm.

Until the 20th century, the complex was neglected and forgotten. In 1931, it was declared a National Monument, but it wasn't until decades later that serious excavation, consolidation, and restoration work began.

Today, thanks to these efforts, Sant Quirze de Colera is still well-visited and offers a profound experience for both history lovers and those seeking a meaningful and authentic escape surrounded by nature.

Come and find out!

Visiting Sant Quirze de Colera is much more than just seeing an ancient building. It's immersing yourself in the memory of a country, treading on the same stones the monks walked over a thousand years ago, and letting yourself be carried away by a landscape of tranquil and timeless beauty. A place where Romanesque architecture, nature, and history come together in perfect harmony.

Schedule

• From September 12th to July 12th, Saturdays and Sundays, from 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
• From July 13th to August 31st, Monday to Sunday, 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM to 7:00 PM. Closed Tuesday afternoons and Wednesdays.
• From September 1st to 11th, Monday to Sunday, 11:00 AM to 1:00 PM. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Let yourself be seduced by the silent power of Sant Quirze and make this visit a unique experience in the heart of Albera!